Friday, November 26, 2010

Ezekiel, Dark Angels Librarian

Finished this guy up the other day.  It's a pretty old model but still a goodie.  It's incredibly detailed.

Next time I do a model this detailed I'm going to wash it after priming to help pick out the details.  I did that to the banner and it was very helpful.

Monday, November 22, 2010

Let's Clarify Something (40k FAQ)

There's been a surprising amount of confusion on this issue with the new 40k FAQ.  It comes from this question:

Q: If a transport vehicle is destroyed in the same turn as it moved flat out what happens to any embarked models? (p70) A: They are removed as casualties.

Eldar haters are just a bit too excited about this one.  Allow me to elucidate.

Page 9 of the rulebook defines what a turn is. It reads, "In a complete turn, both players get a player turn, each one divided into Movement, Shooting and Assault phases..."

So that's a player turn. One person's Movement, Shooting and Assault phases.

Then it reads, "Whenever a rule uses the word 'turn', both in this rule book and in the Codexes, it means 'player turn', otherwise it will clearly state 'game turn'."

So if you move flat out in the player turn and crash yourself your passengers are destroyed.

The confusion comes from reading the FAQ without reading the original rules. This rule has always existed.

Here it is on p. 70:


Passengers may not embark onto or disembark from a fast vehicle if it has moved(or is going to move) flat out in that Movement phase."

The key is IN THAT MOVEMENT PHASE. You can't disembark if you move flat out in your own movement phase (not even an emergency disembarkation). Imagine it's my turn. I move flat out. If I try to ram something and wreck myself because I failed to check myself, my passengers are destroyed because they cannot disembark because I moved flat out IN THAT MOVEMENT PHASE.

Continuing my example, let's say I successfully checked myself so I didn't wreck myself. If you shoot at me in your turn, I get a cover save because the rule on page 71 says "...and has moved flat out in its LAST movement phase counts as obscured (cover save of 4+) when fired at."

Now let's say you shoot it down in your turn, I having moved flat out in my previous movement phase. My passengers are not automatically destroyed, because the restriction on disembarking only applies to my movement phase.

I hope that makes sense.  Now they need to FAQ the FAQ.

Saturday, November 20, 2010

They Ninja Updated the 40k FAQ!

Just one little update that I could find.  Here's the new one.  The one new thing that I found was this:

Q: How do Independent Characters that have joined a squad effect working out if a squad is below half strength or not? (p48)
A: Independent Characters are not counted when working out if a squad is below half strength or not. The exception to this is if an Independent Character is with a Retinue (in which case he is counted when working out if the squad is below half strength).

This reminds me of the Space Wolf FAQ debacle a while back, with a complete reversal of their previous position.

Wednesday, November 17, 2010

Thank You GW

Thanks for updating the 40k FAQ and furthermore, thanks for making it very thorough.  We've actually had debates on a few of these points in my group in the past month or so.  Also, no more intermingling units for mutual cover saves at the ETC!

Sunday, November 7, 2010

The New Guy

Updates may be sparse for a while because of my newest arrival.  Please pardon the disjointed narrative of this post as I'm typing this with one hand while he sleeps on my chest.  With the first one I could work on stuff during her naps. My wife was so tired that she would nap too, and we had an apartment so there wasn't much housework to do. I started this blog a few weeks after she was born, probably during a naptime.

Now with more to do the hobby will have to take the back burner for a while as I try to paint in those magical combined naptimes. As long as there's no housework to do.

Thursday, November 4, 2010

Tutorial: Magnetizing the Screaming Bell/Plague Furnace

Being a man of poor means, I have to stretch every gaming dollar I possibly can.  Furthermore, when new editions change some units drastically change in power level.  Just ask anyone who played Tyranids from 4th to 5th.  Ask them where their Carnifex arms are.  Mine are magnetic so I survived just fine.

When I got the Screaming Bell I was determined to magnetize it, no matter how hard it seemed.  It's an expensive kit and both options seem attractive.  I'm not experienced enough in 8th yet to know which is better and there is rarely a better teacher than experience, so I'm going to have to run both to find out.  I tried finding a tutorial online for magnetizing this beast but there were very few, and I knew I could figure out a better way to do it than the ones I found.

This may seem like a lengthy preface for a tutorial, but this is a seriously difficult project.  This is the hardest thing I've ever magnetized, even harder than the Trygon I did earlier.  First off, the kit is among the most complex I've ever put together.  The Doomwheel is difficult as well, but this one takes the cake.  It has supurb detail but also a ridiculous amount of surfaces and delicate parts.  I almost snapped several of the flame/vapor tendrils on the model while cutting them off.  This is not a kit for beginners (and there's a lot of beginners getting into Skaven because of the IoB, but that's a topic for another day).

What makes this kit so difficult is that the kit shares several pieces in either the Bell or Furnace assembly.  Compounding this is that most of these are key weight-bearing joins.  The yoke and arches are the prime examples.  The back platform being reverseable depending on what you're running is a simple fix but the arches and yoke will be the hardest part.  Steel yourself, double check your polarizations and let's dive in.

Above you can see all the different components of this magnetization.

Let's get the hard stuff out of the way first.  Above you see the interior assembly of the arches.  The magnet is held in place with a greenstuff setting.  You want to use a small but powerful magnet.  This one is 1/8" wide, 1/16" thick and N52 grade.  In order to get the magnets in the right place, look below!

Glue a pair of magnets to either end of the struts.  Be sure that the glue has set, I usually reinforce it with a bit of epoxy.  When it sets, put some greenstuff in the arches and place another magnet on either end of the struts.  Widen the opening of the arches a tiny bit so that you can get the magnets in and out easily without breaking them.  Shove both ends in the arches so that the unglued magnet wedges into the greenstuff.  This way you know it's in the right place.  Double, triple check that your bell/censer is facing the correct direction because the arches must go in the correct side.  I messed up on this part twice and had to redo it.

Above you see the yoke.  Take two tiny magnets, the 1/16" ones are perfect.  Chop off a tiny, tiny bit of the ends and replace them with magnets.  They should still be the same distance apart as they were before.  This can be tricky, you should measure twice and cut once.

Before gluing the bell together, you'll need to get the Grey Seer in position.  Put him together except for the hand grabbing the bell.  Notice in the picture above he has the handle, do as I say not as I do.  I had fitted him, glued the hand and then taken the picture.  You'll need to properly fit him before you glue his hand.  Drill two holes in his feet next to the nubs that go into the corresponding parts on the bell.  Don't drill in the nubs themselves.  Put two small magnets in.

Place the Seer on top of the bell, put a drop of glue where you think his feet are, then drop a magnet in.  It will fall into the spot where the feet are.  The second one is trickier because the second magnet will want to go where the first one is.  Once you get both in and the seer stays up just fine, you can glue the bell together, and magnetize the Horned Rat symbol on top of both the bell and censer.

Now let's finish the Seer.  Very, very carefully drill into the handle on each side and place a magnet in each one.

You can't really see it in this picture, but I drilled a small hole and stuck a bit of paperclip in each side where the handle for the Seer meets the bell.  You don't need a full magnet, just enough force to help hold him in place as the feet provide most of the lift.  I then filed it flat and filled in the gaps so hopefully when it's painted you won't be able to see anything.

Now let's test it out.  Here's the censer assembly sans monks...

And here's the bell assembly sans Seer.  To attach this to the frame of the bell/furnace simply slide the pegs of the arches into the corresponding hole.  You can magnetize this part but it's firm enough that there's really no need.  I didn't bother.

Now the easy part.  Glue a powerful magnet on the underside of the front platform.

Put a magnet on the bottom of the brazier and the Plague Priest, be sure to check the fits and all that stuff.

The back platform is reversable.  It is not a weight-bearing part so I used a weird method to get it in.  Most of the weight is supported by the frame itself, I just wanted an extra bit of holding power without any visible point of contact.  I put two magnets in the sides and then added a magnet on the underside of the frame as seen below.

The magnets don't have contact but they still attract each other.

 To magnetize the Rat Ogre and Plague Monks to the platform simply widen the holes on the platform by a tiny bit so that you can fit a 1/16" magnet in.  To magnetize the Monks/Ogre, simply cut off the pegs on the feet about halfway so you have a flat surface.  Drill in a ways, then cut off the rest of the peg.  The hole will be in the right place and you can widen it for a 1/8" magnet.

Here it is as a Plague Furnace, missing the extra censer thing that goes on the arch.  I left if off because it's not necessary and I'd rather save it for other conversions.

Finally, here it is as the Screaming Bell.

Good luck!  I'll do it for you but I charge $100 for just the magnetization, and you have to clean the mould lines.  Yes, it is cheaper to just buy another kit.  That's the point.  I'm not doing this again.

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